From: Perry Holcomb <hpholcomb@yahoo.com>
Date: November 28, 2007 6:51:21 AM MST
To: Astro_IIDC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Astro_IIDC] Re: Mars Fri Nov 23
May a newbie break in here??
I am simply amazed, astounded, and ATR (all-the-rest)
at this discussion on Schiller. I find it educational
and enlightening. Most of all, I appreciate the
knowledge and passion of those contributing to my
learning.
One quick question re this Schiller astrophoto: What
is the approximate size of the smallest detail that
can be eyeballed in it?? Info like that is also
intriguing, at least to me, but generally not
discussed.
Thanks from an astronomy kindergartner, but who is
learning!!
Perry
--- Duane <macastronomer@mac.com> wrote:
I use Photoshop's curves. Curves are actually pretty
simple, but very powerful.
The shortcut on a Mac is Apple-M, PC is Cntrl-M I
think. To remember that, just remember
how great curves are and think, "mmmmm... Cuuurves!"
When you open curves, you'll see a grid. On the left
is the output (how dark a given pixel
will appear) and on the bottom is the current
density (how dark it is now). From bottom to
top is dark to light, and from left to right is dark
to light (however, this can be reversed).
If you click around on your image while in curves,
you'll see a circle on the curves grid that
represents the pixel you are over.
Now for the meat of it...
There is a diagonal line (lower left to upper right)
which cross-references the current
shade with the output shade. Black represent black
and so on. If you were to click on this
part of the line and raise it up, Black would now be
represented by a lighter shade. Moving
the line moves several shades at a time, so all of
these shades are represented and
altered.
The diagonal is a 1:1 ratio in density to output.
But in any place where you make the line
more vertical, or should I say increase the slope,
you are stretching the detail. Any place
where the line become more horizontal, it flattens
and loses contrast.
The main goal is to locate the area you want to
bring out detail and pull the line more vertical in
that region.
For somebody new to curves, I have 4 simple ways to
start using it:
UP) If your detail is in the dark shades, grab the
middle of the curve and pull it up a bit
(detail pops out on the low end but is suppressed on
the high end). It has an overall affect
of lightening the image.
DOWN) If your detail is in the lighter shades, grab
the middle and pull it down (the
opposite of above).
S) If your detail is in the center, click once on
the middle of the line (it will lock it in place
with a black dot), then pull the line from a quarter
of a way from the dark end, down. You
may want to pull the lighter quarter of the line up.
This makes an S shaped curve (detail
pops out in the middle grays but is suppressed at
the extremes).
Reverse S) If your detail is toward both extremes
but not in the middle (rarely happens),
put the lock in the middle and push the darker
quarter slightly up and the lighter quarter
slightly down (detail pops out at the extremes but
the middle is suppressed).
Now for the posterization issue:
Click in the area where the shade changes due to the
sphere of the planet. This will show
you the region on the line where you should make it
more vertical. It won't take too much
—just season it to taste. Be careful you aren't
flatting any important data by keeping an
eye on the important detail in the image.
I hope I wrote that clear enough, it should be a
good primer for anybody who wants begin
to understand curves. There is much more to curves,
especially as a color balance tool. I
hope I get time to add some of this to my webpage
someday.
Please let me know if that was helpful. I know it's
tough without graphical aid.
Duane
--- In Astro_IIDC@yahoogroups.com, "Christoph
Bosshard" <chboss@...> wrote:
Hi Duane
Thanks for your comment.
Can you point me to some detailed sources
regarding stretching the
curves? Would you do this in IIDC or in Photoshop?
Hopefully there will be more good material to work
with in the comming
weeks. I am still doing some changes to my
equipment at the moment to
be well prepared. :-)
I will certainly post the results to get some more
tips on how to
improve. I think it is a great way of learning.
regards
Chris
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the feedback. I think that left right
alignment is
actually a bit of bubbling (disk
size due to atmospheric refraction) but
reprocessing may allow me to
get a better pick on
the photos that are accepted. I rather loath
picking them by hand,
but it is another option.
Nice shot too. I always figure that if I can
tell which side of Mars
is showing that it was
worth while night. It looks to me like you have
the Mare Serinum side.
There's a little bit of posterization on your
image that can be
avoided using curves to stretch the area in the
histogram that
contains Mars' data before doing too much
sharpening or other processing.
Keep shooting and sharing. I find it really
helpful to see what
others are doing.
Tonight, major wind and jetstream issues here.
Time to get some sleep :)
Duane
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